Tweed Coast Treadly

BIKE RIDING – Some Basics

 

TRAINING Bicycling has long been recognized as one of the finest forms of exercise. Unlike running, aerobics, Tae-Bo and other fitness fads, cycling is easy on the body because the bicycle supports your body weight so you don’t have to. Plus, there’s no impact on the body from pedalling. These advantages make cycling an ideal way to get fit because the risk of injury is practically nil and the chance of success is excellent. Even better, compared with stuffy health clubs or boring jogging tracks, every ride offers adventure. You enjoy lookouts, spot wildlife, conquer climbs, surf tailwinds, getting fit while having the time of your life. In fact, cycling is such great fun, it’s possible to get carried away and ride too far or too hard, too soon. That’s probably not a problem if you’re just riding for fun. But, if you’re pedalling for fitness, it’s wiser to build strength gradually and consistently according to a plan.

 

 

For Planning, use the following 7 guidelines

1: Get a Check-Up Before beginning a fitness program it’s best to get checked by your physician to ensure that it’s safe for you to begin cycling regularly. Additionally, you can discuss your fitness goal with your doctor for expert feedback. She may surprise you with some excellent training tips!

2: Set a Goal The secret to being motivated to train is having something to look forward to. For many riders it’s an event such as a summer century (a 60- to 100-mile supported ride) or a mountain-bike festival (being fit means being able to keep up with others and finish rides). But, you might have less lofty goals, such as being able to make it up that long fireroad climb someday without walking. Whatever — the goal you pick isn’t as important as making sure that it’s doable. For example, shooting for an Olympic medal is probably a stretch and setting yourself up for failure at the outset. It’s more constructive and more motivating to choose goals within your reach. And you can always up the ante as you progress.

3: Work Then Rest The basic principle of exercise is stressing the body a certain amount and then letting it recover. During the recovery phase the body reacts to the work you did and actually gets stronger. And, over time, by gradually increasing the amount and intensity of the work and recovering carefully, you build fitness and improve. Keep this hard/easy principle in mind as you train and always remember that the easy part (rest) is just as important as the work part. Pay attention to how you feel after rides, to gauge your fatigue level and adjust your training accordingly to allow recovery.

4: Build Fitness Gradually To maintain a fitness level, you must ride at least three days a week. And these rides should be based on your ability. If you’re just starting to train, they might be conversational pace (an effort that allows you to talk to ride partners) and about an hour long on rolling or flat terrain. Then, to increase your range and ability to maintain a faster pace, you can add another ride to the week and/or increase the intensity (either by riding faster or including hills or hard efforts to increase the workload) of some of the rides. What’s important is to add effort gradually. Shoot for about a ten-percent increase per week in distance/time and no more. And, always back off if you feel tired taking an easy day spinning comfortably around a flat loop or resting entirely.

5: Track Your Training Another secret to success is keeping a training diary. Any notebook or electronic file is fine. After each ride, jot down a description, the distance, time, effort level and how you felt that day. You might also want to track your weight and resting heart rate. Once you’ve accumulated some data, the diary becomes a great tool for figuring out what works and what doesn’t. Use it to fine-tune your workouts to achieve your goals. A training log is also a fine motivator. As the pages fill with rides, you’ll be proud of your accomplishment and want to keep adding to it.

6: Make Time to Ride If you’re a busy professional, the biggest challenge may be finding time to ride. It helps to be flexible, creative and stubborn. Keep in mind that any ride is better than no ride when it comes to achieving your goals and try to get in your planned rides. Are responsibilities eating up most of the day? Ride in the pre-dawn hours or evening with a light. If you have a shower at work, consider riding during your lunch break or commuting by bike. You might even be able to form a weekly lunch group ride. Need to watch the kids during the time you set aside to ride? Get your ride in on a trainer in the living room so you can exercise and monitor the kids simultaneously. If you can think like this and are determined to fit your rides in, you’ll stick with your plan and succeed.

7: Stay Motivated While everyone feels out of sorts at times, it shouldn’t jeopardise your fitness goals. Usually, the hardest part is getting out of the house and starting to ride. One great trick is having a training partner or riding with a group that meets regularly. It’s also a great idea to set short-term goals and use them as focal points in your training. For example, you might write a training schedule and use it to set daily goals and remain committed. Another trick is to tell yourself beforehand that it’s going to be a great ride. Or, try focusing on something positive on the ride such as a bakery you can stop at or a thrilling descent. Keep things fun like this and you’ll stay on track and realize your goals.

 

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Energy-Food Tips to Ride Stronger & Longer

1. Your body can store roughly an hour-and-a-half to two-hours worth of glycogen (muscle fuel). So, if you’re riding longer, you need to carry food (or stop to purchase it) and consume enough calories to keep from developing a glycogen deficit and running out of energy.

2. It’s best to carry energy drinks (versus water) because they are easily consumed and provide fuel in the form of steady complex carbohydrates, as well as replenishing electrolytes and minerals lost through sweating.

3. Start drinking before you’re thirsty because by the time your brain signals thirst, you’ve already lost one percent of your body weight in sweat!

4. You should carry an energy drink you enjoy because if it tastes good, you’ll drink more. And, if it tastes bad, you won’t drink enough, if at all. Be sure to taste test while riding because the drink may taste differently than it did at home

5. Cold liquids are absorbed by your system more quickly. Keep your drinks cooler longer by inserting ice or by freezing half-full bottles the night before the ride and topping them off in the morning. You might also consider using insulated bottles. If you’re using a hydration pack, adding ice will keep your torso cool, too.

6. When you’re carrying energy drink in two bottles, lower the concentration in your second bottle because as you fatigue and heat up, you’ll likely prefer less flavour and sweetness.

7. If you’re riding hard, it’s also important that your energy drink isn’t too concentrated. Too rich a mixture can upset your stomach and even slow down or prevent absorption.

8. To make sure you’re properly hydrated before an event, check your urine. It should be pale yellow or clear. Dark yellow and strong-smelling urine is a reminder to drink a few more glasses of liquid, although vitamin pills can have a colouring effect as well. Another key sign of proper hydration is having to get up during the night before the event to urinate.

9. Jersey pockets are designed to carry energy bars, fig bars, fruit and energy gels. Plus, it’s easy to reach the food stored this way so you’re more likely to eat it.

10. For competition, when it can be hard to retrieve food from a pocket, racers sometimes use electrical tape to stick packets of energy gel to their top tube or stem for easy access.

11. For high-intensity events or rides, energy gels and drinks work better than energy bars. They can be swallowed in seconds (chewing an energy bar can interfere with breathing) and the ingredients enter your system quickly.

12. Twenty miles into a century is no time to find out that the energy drink your training partner recommended upsets your stomach. So be sure to experiment in training or on rides that are not as important as your big event to make sure that your food and drink choices are right for you.

13. Energy drinks specifically formulated for pre-workout provide easily digested liquid calories designed to enhance endurance. Look for an all-purpose supplement that supplies healthy complex carbohydrates and protein with low sugar and fat. The carbos replenish your energy reserves, while protein helps your muscles recover and rebuild from the trauma of hard efforts. You may find that energy bars, fruit and cereal make good pre-workout meals, too.

14. Eat within one hour of your workout/event and you’ll recover fastest. During this hour the muscles absorb the most nutrients and glycogen, an energy reserve in your muscles, is replaced most efficiently.

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Eat Right to Ride Stronger & Longer

One of the wonderful fringe benefits of bicycling is having a great appetite and being able to eat what you like (within reason, of course).

 

We recommend carrying energy drink and bars or gels, which
are far more convenient, much easier to digest and surprisingly tasty, too.
Here are some guidelines on practical eating for cycling.

 

Keep in mind that the heavier you are and the harder you ride, the more calories you burn.

Your body can store roughly an hour-and-a-half to two hours
worth of glycogen (muscle fuel). That’s all! So, if you’re riding longer, you
need to carry food (or stop to purchase it) and consume enough calories to keep
from developing a glycogen deficit.

 

Depending upon your sweat rate and the weather, you lose
anywhere from 1 to 2 quarts of perspiration an hour. On rides, you must replace
this fluid loss with more than just water because you’re not only losing H2O,
but also vital nutrients.

 

 

Beating the Bonk

This glycogen deficit and mineral loss can cause a miserable
condition that’s known as the “bonk” or “hitting the wall,”
which feels like you’ve run out of gas. Your legs feel incredibly weak and
small hills become Mt. Everest. You may experience a pins-and-needles feeling
in your arms and light-headedness, even nausea. If you stop for a while, you
may get back on the bike and feel fine, only to have the bonk return in just a
few minutes. You can even become disoriented and dizzy, which can lead to a
crash.

 

 

Eat and Drink Right Before, During and After Riding

Eating properly while riding ensures you don’t run out of
energy and bonk. It’s equally important to consume nutritional food before and
after rides so that you’re ready to ride and recover quickly. Here’s an
overview of the three types of eating for cycling with suggestions:

 

1. Pre-Workout Energy

Exercise and heavy eating don’t mix, but you need calories
to fuel your workouts because not eating can result in you quickly depleting
your energy reserves. Plus, some athletes get upset stomachs exercising on
empty tanks.

 

An energy drink specifically formulated for pre-workout can
provide easily digested liquid calories designed to enhance endurance. Look for
an all-purpose supplement that supplies healthy complex carbohydrates and
protein with low sugar and fat. You may find that energy bars, fruit and cereal
make good pre-workout meals, too.

 

2. Energy Replenishment during Workouts and Events

While it’s essential to carry food or stop for snacks while
riding, what you eat and drink depends on what works for you. Energy drinks are
easily consumed (sipping is easier and faster than chewing) and provide fuel in
the form of steady complex carbohydrates, as well as replenishing electrolytes
and minerals lost through sweating.

 

You’ll also want solid food. Energy bars require more effort
to eat than drinks or gels and are best for long, low-intensity rides. Energy
gels (similar in form and taste to cake frosting) have become very popular the
last few years. These are easy to eat and absorb and provide concentrated
carbohydrates that deliver immediate energy during intense efforts. Some
varieties include vitamins, amino acids, caffeine and electrolytes.

 

And remember, that whatever you choose to eat, you must also drink plenty of water, which helps your body more quickly absorb the essential ingredients in energy foods.

 

3. Eating To Recover

There’s a one-hour window of opportunity immediately after
workouts when the muscles absorb the most nutrients and when glycogen, the
energy reserve in your muscles, is replaced most efficiently. Protein is also
important to help quickly repair the trauma your muscles have sustained from
firing thousands of times during your ride.

 

You don’t have to eat a big meal, but you should eat
something soon after training to recover quickly and store energy for your next
ride. Lots of people get good results with a small,
high-protein-and-carbohydrate shake. Other carbo-rich foods work well, too,
such as a vegetarian burrito. You should experiment to see what works best for
you.

 

Taking It with You

It’s a snap to take along energy drinks and food. Drinks are
easy to carry in water bottles. Or, you might prefer wearing a hydration pack,
which carries more liquid and includes a delivery hose to make sipping more
convenient.

 

Jersey pockets are designed to carry energy bars, fig bars,
fruit or energy gels. Stashed like this, the grub is easily reached while
riding, too. Some people use electrical tape to stick packets of energy gel to
their top tube or stem for easy access (a good trick for racing). For
high-intensity events or rides, energy gels and drinks work better than energy
bars. They can be swallowed in seconds (chewing an energy bar can interfere
with breathing) and the ingredients enter your system quickly.

 

Taste Test

Be sure to experiment in training or on rides that are not
as important as your big event to make sure that your food and drink choices
are right for you. What works for one person won’t necessarily work for you.
And, twenty miles into a century is no time to find out that the energy drink
your training partner recommended upsets your stomach.

 

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What’s a hybrid bike?

We find the name as confusing as you do. And so do the bike manufacturers, which is why so many of them mark their hybrids with anything besides that term. Still, it’s an important bike type and the term is used enough that you should understand it.   A little history will help. In the seventies, the groovy bike was the ten-speed with its skinny tires, drop handlebars and narrow seat. A decade later, the to-die-for machine was the mountain bike, with its fat tires, indestructible components, super-low gearing and ultra-comfortable wide, flat handlebars. Both these bike types sold like crazy in their heyday and continue to sell well today. Why? They’re each perfectly suited for their intended purpose: on-road and off-road riding.   But what if you enjoy riding both dirt roads and pavement? What if you want a responsive bike that’s more rugged than a lightweight road model? What if you’re looking for the comfort and convenience of flat bars but want to ride at a good clip and for long distances? What if you want low gears and carrying capacity? If that’s you, a hybrid is likely your best bike choice.   Hybrids combine the best of the two most popular bike types. What’s interesting is that after millions of ten-speeds were sold in the seventies and mountain bikes in the eighties, a great many were ridden a few times and then permanently parked because it wasn’t the right bike for that person. Lots of people bought mountain bikes looking for something more comfortable than the ten-speed they had. But, they were disappointed when they felt how much more effort was required to pedal the bike down the road. Likewise, hoards of people were miserable sitting all hunched over trying to reach the drop bars on a racing bike.   On a hybrid, you get the comfort of the flat handlebars with the zippiness of lightweight wheels. But, the bike is durable enough that you can take it off road (though hybrids are best for smooth groomed paths and dirt roads, not rugged trails and technical single track) and carry plenty of gear for commuting or touring. Many hybrids include innovations such as shock seat posts that absorb jolts and provide additional comfort. And they come equipped with low gearing for easy hill climbing and tough tires that resist punctures.

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Proper Shifting Helps Your Bike Last Longer, Work Better

 

An important shifting rule is to reduce pressure on the
pedals during shifts. Modern drive-trains will shift regardless of pedal
pressure. But, if you can always ease up a bit, the shifts will be smoother and
also your chain, cogs and chain-rings will last longer.

 

1. Shift before Hills

The hardest place to ease pedalling, of course, is when
you’re struggling to get up a steep hill. The trick is to shift before the
steep part of the hill so you can make the shift with little pressure on the
pedals.

 

2. Finesse Front Shifts

Another thing to remember, shifting the front derailleur.
You’re shifting between chain-rings that are significantly different in size.
This means that the derailleur has to work hard to move the chain from one to
the other. So, the light-pedal-pressure rule really applies here. If you can
finesse this shift, you’re much more likely to get a clean, smooth shift. And,
you’ll eliminate problems associated with high-pressure shifts such as having
the chain come off.

 

3. Shift That Dropped Chain On

Speaking of chains falling off, you can usually shift the
chain right back on the chain-ring if it falls off. This isn’t possible if it
falls off when you’re climbing a hill, because you lose your momentum and have
to stop. But, anytime you’re riding where you can coast for a few seconds, you
can almost always get the chain back on by gently pedalling and shifting the
front derailleur to move the chain toward the ring.

 

Pedal slowly and lightly and the ring will grab and engage
the chain and you’ll be riding again as before. (When a chain comes off
repeatedly, something is wrong and you should have us take a look at the front
derailleur adjustment.)

 

4. Drive-train Care

In addition to proper shifting, cleaning and preventive
maintenance can extend the life of your drivetrain as well. For starters, keep
your chain clean and well lubricated. Chain-cleaning tools make it a snap to
keep your links spotless. We can recommend some.

 

You should also inspect your chain every six months or so
and measure it for stretching. The rule of thumb for checking wear is to put a
load on the pedals, pick a chain pin on the top side and measure to any pin 12
inches away. Because the links are exactly one-inch long when brand new, you
should be able to measure exactly 12 inches between two pins. If the
measurement is 12 1/8 inch, or longer, it’s time to replace the chain.

 

5. Check The Cogs, Too

Keep in mind that cogs wear at about the same rate as the
chain. So, if you put on a new chain, your worn cogs won’t work right. They’ll
skip, which is an annoying and possibly dangerous condition where pedal
pressure causes the links to ride up and jump over the teeth on the cog. The
cure is to replace the cassette cogs.

 

Remember to keep your front chain-rings and rear cogs clean.
One trick to removing grit from cogs is to fold a rag in half, place it between
the cogs and slide it back and forth. Repeat between each pair of neighbouring
cogs until the cassette is clean. Don’t spray degreaser on the rear cog-set
because this can penetrate the hub and free-hub body, breaking down the grease
in those areas, leaving them completely unprotected against friction.

 

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What size bike/frame should I get?

You should get the bike size that allows an optimum fit for
your body and your preferred type of riding. That means different things for
different people. The best approach is to come in to our shop. We’ll have you
stand over and sit on a few bicycles so we can have a look and make
recommendations. We’ll determine what bike size is right by checking for these
things:

 

1. You can comfortably (and safely) get on and off the bike

2. The seat can be placed in a comfortable and efficient position for pedalling

3. The handlebars can be placed at the right height for your torso length, flexibility and riding style

 

Keep in mind that most quality bikes come in a variety of
frame sizes but there are often sizing differences from bike brand to brand,
the same way shoe and clothing fit varies. Our goal is to find the frame that
fits your lower and upper body to a T. Once we’ve determined the correct size
for you, we can fine tune the fit as needed by adjusting the seat and
handlebars.

 

How do you find the right seat height?

If you ride with the seat too high or low, you risk knee
injuries, lower back pain, saddle sores and reduced pedalling efficiency. So,
you can see why we feel that seat height is one of the most important bike
adjustments. If you wish to make the adjustment on your own here’s one easy method (all you need is a helper):

 

Put on cycling clothes (including shoes) and start adjusting
by levelling the seat and cantering its rails in the seat post clamp. Now, to
find the right height, place the bike in a doorway or on a stationary trainer
so you can hold yourself up. Have your buddy stand behind you where he can
watch your legs and hips (if you can’t find a helper, park a video camera
behind you and watch yourself on TV). Get on the bike, place your heels on the
tops of the pedals and spin backwards. The seat height is perfect when your
legs are completely extended as the pedals reach the bottom of the pedal stroke
with your heels on the pedals. If your hips rock sideways, the seat is too
high. If there’s any bend in the knees, the seat is too low.

 

With the seat at this height, you’ll have a slight bend in
your knees when you’re riding with the balls of your feet over the pedals
(where they belong), which should be the most comfortable, efficient and
injury-free saddle position.

 

Now that you’ve taken the trouble to find the best seat
height, it’s a great idea to mark the setting by wrapping a bit of tape around
the post. That way, if you box the bike for shipping or change the seat for a
friend to use the bike, you can quickly return it to the right spot for you.

 

Once you’ve adjusted seat height, it’s time to find the
correct fore-and-aft position of the saddle. This determines where you sit in
relationship to the crank-set (where the pedals are attached), which helps
decide how comfortable and efficient you’ll be when riding. This is fine tuning
of your position and it requires careful eyeballing and some expertise.

 

If you want to try to check the fore-and-aft setting at
home, round up a helper and a plumb line (a length of string with a nut tied on
the end will work fine). Place your bike on a stationary trainer making sure
that the bike is level. Then put on cycling clothes, hop on and spin in a low
gear for a few minutes to loosen up and get comfortable.

 

Have your helper stand on the bike’s right side. Stop pedalling
when you you’re warm and you feel like you’re sitting on your seat’s sweet
spot, where you spend most of your time. Bring your right crank-arm around and
have your helper stop the crank when the pedal is at three o’clock. He also
should make sure that both the crank-arm and pedal are level with the ground.
Note that for this measurement to be accurate; your shoes must be correctly
positioned on the pedals (the balls of your feet should be over the pedal
axles).

 

Holding this position, have your helper place the end of the
plumb line on the front of your leg, at a point just below the bony protrusion
that’s beneath the kneecap. The plumb line’s weight should hang over your shoe.
Check again to ensure that the crank-arm and pedal are level. Now, by looking
at the relationship of the plumb line (gauge by the line, not the weight) to
the centre of the pedal (for reference, use the pedal axle), you can figure
what, if any, adjustment is needed.

 

For most riders and types of cycling, the plumb line should
bisect or be slightly behind the pedal axle. If it’s ahead, loosen the seat
clamp and slide the saddle back (but don’t knock it off level). Then check with
the plumb line again to make sure the position is correct.

 

If this procedure sounds tricky, it’s because it is.

 

 

How high should the handlebars be?

The bars should be adjusted so that you’re comfortable. But,
before you do anything, keep in mind that it’s not always easy to raise or
lower bicycle handlebars, especially if you want a significant change.
Depending on the bike, special tools and parts may be required.

 

As for what height is correct, don’t assume that the higher
the bars are, the more comfortable you’ll be, because that’s usually not the
case. In fact, if the handlebars are too high, most of your body weight gets
shifted to the seat, which usually causes saddle soreness. Worse, high bars can
spur lower-back pain because jolts from bumps come up through the rear wheel
and pound your posterior and back.

 

Ideally, the correct handlebar height results in a
comfortable riding position that balances pressure on the body’s contact points
so no one part suffers. Your hands, arms, shoulders, back and neck should feel
relaxed and natural when you’re riding. What’s right for you also depends on
the bike and how you ride.

 

To evaluate handlebar height: lean your bike against a wall
and place a yardstick on the seat (if the seat’s not level, make sure the
yardstick is) so that the end of the ruler extends over the bars. You can then
see how high the handlebars are in relationship to the seat height, which is a
good way to judge bar position.

 

Most cyclists prefer a bar position that is about the same
height or slightly higher than the saddle. But, folks who ride more, maintain a
faster pace, and are more flexible, generally like having their handlebars
below the height of the seat.

 

Off-road, hybrid and comfort bikes are often equipped with
upright handlebars, sometimes called “riser bars” or
“risers” because they offer some built-in height. They’re usually
wider than flat and dropped handlebars, too. These design differences mean that
it’s unlikely you’ll need to raise these types of handlebars.

 

How do I determine stem length (the reach to the handlebars)?

New bicycles come with stems (the component that holds the
handlebars) that are sized according to how big the frame is. As bicycles get
larger, stems get longer and vice versa. Consequently, there’s an excellent
chance that if your bike fits, your stem is the right length and you don’t need
to worry about it.

 

The exception is if you’re experiencing problems such as
neck, back, hand and shoulder soreness during or after rides. And/or if you
find that you have difficulty maintaining bent elbows while riding or feel the
need to move forward or backward on the seat all the time. These are signs that
the reach might be wrong and that swapping stems could be a good move.

 

Like other bike-sizing issues, it’s difficult to judge stem
length without help because you can’t look at yourself in action. Also, you may
not know enough to recognize signs that indicate change is needed.

 

If you’d like to check the fit on your own, one
in-the-ballpark test is to hit the road or trail, warm up until you’re
comfortable and then look down (when it’s safe) at your front hub (the center
of the wheel). If you can’t see the hub because the handlebars are blocking
your view, it’s an indication that the stem is probably the right size. If you
see the hub and it’s out in front of the bars, it’s a sign that a longer stem
may be needed. And, if it’s behind the bars, a shorter stem should solve
things.

 

 

A more accurate way to gauge stem length is to videotape
yourself riding on a trainer (shot from the side), or get someone to watch. You
can then look at the movie (or ask your helper questions) to find out how your
position looks. Ideally, your back will be flat (no hump), your head and neck
will rest at a comfortable angle, your shoulders will be dropped (not hunched),
your arms will be slightly bent, and an imaginary plumb line dropped from the
tip of your nose would fall about an inch behind the handlebars. Keep in mind
that this is a description of how you should be able to ride no matter what
type of bike you use or how much you exercise. If you can’t, chances are the
stem is the wrong size and will cause you problems on longer rides.

 

If you’re not sure what to look for, you might check side
view photos of professional riders in books and magazines. Generally,
competitive cyclists use extreme positions that are lower than what you’ll
prefer. Other than that, though, the body position should be very similar, so
you can compare.

 

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